Reflections on Nepal

Lucy Nameste Nice Nepal. Nepal is full of exciting and interesting culture and many different nice people. We went for a 12 day hike into the mountains. We walked many, many, many kilometres; ate many chocolate bars; and told many, many stories. When we returned back to Pokhara, Daddy had to leave to get his Pakistan visa just before his birthday. We made friends with two other sets of Overlanders, it was good to meet other people driving around Asia. I loved going to the cafe next door, The Bee Charmer. Upstairs there was a little boy called Babu, he had the sweetest baby chicks and everyday we played with them together. I went to Babu's birthday party. There were 3 sweet dogs nearby. One was a stray dog we named Foxy because of her ears were like a fox and she had the nicest orangey fur. Alisha and I wanted to adopt her. Bye bye Nice Nepal. Alisha Nepal was an instant relief after crazy India. We found that Nepal was less nuts then India but a bit far off a European country. Kathmandu is about four notches less on the crazy scale then Varanasi, an Indian city. (To be honest it might of been five but who cares) but the rest of Nepal was pretty (it was more than pretty actually but I can't spell baeutiful or is it beautilful you see, I can't spell it). The Himalayas were awesome. I know most people say " Oh the only reason I went to Nepal was to go trekking" but there is a lot more to Nepal then that. It's a whole form of culture on it's own. Most people look over Nepal, they prefer to go to Tibet for the Himalayas. Even if they go to Nepal they only look at the mountains not at the culture but they should it is really interesting. I bet Mummy or Daddy will write about the amazing mountains and the scenery and blah blah blah. I enjoyed meeting all the different people on the mountain, there was a lot of people who where all very friendly and I beat a lot of them at cards;) When we spent two weeks in Pokhara that was fun I got to go and buy vegetables on my own (when you don't have a permanent address and you can't go anywhere without a grown-up, it's a big deal). The local shop owners got to know me and always smiled and waved as I walked towards them. They where always super friendly and never once called me baby (whooooohooo). Gilly We only left the mountains a couple of days ago and already I miss them, especially as it is 38°C in the lowlands. Our two treks in Nepal: up the Kalaigebdiki Valley and up to Mardi Himal Base Camp, were all we had hoped for and more. Both teahouses treks, the first gave us not only amazing mountain views but also a glimpse of village culture. The second was mostly through uninhabited forest but the highlight was the final days views from above the tree line and Steve and I getting up to the Base Camp. It would have been nice to have done it together but I'm so pleased we were able to do it, and we didn't have to drag the girls up that high. I'm amazed at how much they enjoyed the trekking too, they deserve credit for how well they did. They rarely complained about the walking and loved the novelty of sleeping in new places, meeting new people and hours of telling and hearing stories. The big earthquake, 2 years ago, has left it scars. We saw lots of rebuilding in Kathmandu which added a lot of dust to the already horribly polluted atmosphere. The Nepali people stoic, warm and welcoming and everything was working although sadly for them tourist numbers are way down. Education seems to have a big focus with kids smart in the uniform setting off every morning for school. The children who lived around the area we stayed in Pokhara, were all enthusiastic and spoke some English. Although sadly, we did see some instances of child labour, many were just helping their parents out but some appeared to be working independently in businesses. We loved our 7 1/2 weeks in Nepal so much that we have already decided what to do when we come back, another trek into a more remote region. We would have happily stayed for longer but after so long in one place the road beckons. Steve I loved Nepal. It's a friendly country with some of the most amazing scenery on the planet. After the chaos of India, Nepal felt so much more relaxed. Not that it didn't have it's own chaotic places such as the traffic in Kathmandu but once out trekking that all just faded away. The culture and the sights of the Kathmandu valley made for an interesting week but the highlight for me was the two treks we did that took us high into the mountains. It was good to see we were all pretty fit and that we managed the altitude well so that we could enjoy the breath taking scenery. I just could not get enough of the views and I am keen to come back to do some more trekking. Heading up to Kagbeni and glimpsing into Mustang has me eager for more. Pokhara was also a pleasant relaxed place to hang out and a great place for the family to stay while I had to head back to England for a visa. We have a lot of driving in front of us so it was nice to leave the truck parked up for a while and to use our own two feet to get around. The treks were amazing. It was not just the scenery but the simple life of moving from tea house to tea house. Meeting other interesting travellers as well as engaging with the owners of the tea houses. We soon settled into a daily rhythm and the worries of the wider world just faded away. Sitting looking in awe at the mountains just seemed to make everything so insignificant.

Reflections on India

Lucy We entered India in Manipur and we had to be very careful for 2 days because there had been riots. When we drive along we saw some burnt out trucks, it was quite scary. Then we went to Kazaringa, we saw loads of rhinos while we were riding ELEPHANTS! There was a little elephant, just 10 months old, walking with the adults, he was adorable but very naughty and kept on trying to trip up the adults who had people riding on them. We saw a tiny baby rhino only 3 days. We then went to Varanassi, where we saw bodies burning which scared me a bit. But the people who died would have been happy as Varanasi is such a holy place. We bought a candle and flowers to float down the Ganges River, it looked like it was a reflection of the stars. We've seen some amazing animals in India. Indian ground squirrels are absolutely adorable, they are everywhere and I love to watch them and I communicate with them by twitching my nose. Cows in India are holy, so we saw them everywhere milling around. You are not allowed to eat beef, Daddy had to be very careful as they always stand in the middle of the road causing traffic jams. We saw 4 tigers in the national parks, one female tiger was being pursued by a male tiger when we saw her. She was wasn't very happy because he was big, we saw them cross the road together. Indian sweets have enough sugar in them to made English dentists faint but I LOVE them, they are absolutely delicious. My favourite gulub jammu, is a spongy cake ball swimming in sweet syrup. If you eat 2 you start to feel a bit sick because they so rich. I liked all the other types of sweets I tried too. Some of the Indian foods were a bit spicy but I loved butter nan, lassi and butter chicken. India was such a lovely place with such lovely people, they were kind. The men in Rajasthan had amazing moustaches really long and curly. We had a competition to spot the best one. Alisha If you like crazy drivers, spicy food, constantly loud horns, stunningly beautiful buildings and friendly people then India is the country for you. Like most countries, the good outweighs the bad. In India though the roads are goodish-badish but the driving is atrocious. My opinion is the worse the road, the worse the driving. Can you imagine walking across a crowded street dodging cycle rickshaws and tuk-tuks and then getting to the other side to check everyone else is following you. Its absolutely conkers and almonds and hazelnuts and pistachios and every other nuts you can think of. India though has many nice features, one being the many clothes and trinkets that are on sale. I really enjoyed looking at all the different patterned saris and scarves and I bought some lovely material to make some clothes with. The colours are amazing. It put me off sometimes, that every time you went anywhere near someone's shop they would leap up and say "Come into my shop" or "Many things cheap" or some thing along those lines and then when you went into there shop they would spread everything out and even if you didn't want those things you would feel bad that he had got them all out and buy something you didn't want or need. I really enjoyed bargaining with stall holders the trick is to start walking away and then they are eager to sell it to you. There are many beautiful sights in India. One being the Taj Mahal in Agra and seeing all the beautiful jewel flowers set into the marble walls. I also enjoyed the many different forts and palaces scattered throughout the country. After a bit they started to get boring but I turned them into stories for Lucy so she was happy. It was lovely to meet Granny and show her some of India and to meet Pratibha and Vineet who explained lots about India. I enjoyed and disliked India in turns but one way or another India is exhausting no matter which way you look at it. Gilly India, Oh India - you've made me laugh; you've made me cry; you've titilated my senses with your sights, smells and tastes; you've introduced me to amazing ancient cultures I'd never heard of; and you turned me into a foul-mouthed navvie. India is incredible, to quote their tourist office, but not always in the positive sense and definitely the most extreme country we've overlanded through. After backpacking in the country for many, many months years ago thought I would be less sensitive to the culture shock many foreigners experience. But I think it was the driving that tipped me over the edge, the chaos on some of the roads was shocking even for us. Frequently the actions of the road users prompted streams of incredulous expletives from Steve and I. It was like playing the most extreme driving computer game ever invented - cars; motorbikes; trucks; bikes; people - all in their thousands, funnelled into a narrow market with goods cluttering the sides of the road. Now add in the crazy bits: cows; naked monks; a corpse on a stretcher covered with balloons; camel carts; a wedding procession with the groom on a horse with uniformed men with load speakers and lights balance on their heads and the rest of the family Bollywood dancing behind - if you can imagine it, we have probably seen it on the road in India. Everyone jostling for prime position, no one ever giving an inch, even if their progress slightly forward completely blocks both sides of the road so now no one can move at all. Amazingly though, this is generally done with no malice and general good humour, apart from by us, the incredulous foreigners who seem to think that driving should have some rules. Now imagine having everything that can honking their horns constantly and you start to get the idea. However, all in all the positives far outweigh the negatives. The friendly people, people all over the country were welcoming and curious about us. Even on Delhi's modern metro on every journey we had people striking up conversations and checking we knew where we were going. London Underground commuters could definitely learn a thing about being friendly to visitors from Delhi's riders. However we had to get used to getting stared at, wherever we went a group of men would gather around to watch our every move. It was a little disconcerting to start with especially if they didn't respond to a friendly "namaste" and just continued to stare but we soon got used to it. It was just genuine curiously as we saw groups gather around anything interesting. I think Steve got the worst of it whenever he was doing anything mechanical, he would emerge from the truck's underneath to find a group around him. We were lucky enough to visit some of India's best religious and historic places. I think my favourites were the caves at Ellora and Ajanta, amazing feats of faith and engineering from a time with little technology, and the forts of Rajasthan that rose from the surrounding desert and glowed orange in the setting sun. It is a country of huge diversity in our last week in the country in Delhi we saw modern, urban India with IT companies, women in good jobs and global connectivity. To huge areas of rural areas where small holding framers worked in their fields with their oxen and the women almost invisible in towns but constantly seen toiling in the fields. Homes are often without any toilets, so we frequently saw people defecating in the fields. However, even in the poorest rural areas we always saw the majority of kids very smart in their uniforms going off early to school. I think the times the variety surprised us the most was when they were side by side, juxtaposed next to each other - the large family living, cooking, sleeping under a makeshift shelter and begging on the traffic island on a multilane highway going to modern office blocks. Steve India - what can you say? It's crazy, chaotic and can drive you mad. But it's also beautiful with ancient cultures and wonderful (when they are not driving) people. India assaults your senses in every way and at every turn. The colours, the smells and the sights both beautiful and unbelievable. There is no escaping it and you just have to plunge right in and hope you come out the other side. We only realised after we left just how exhausted we were from our 10 weeks in India. In that time though we saw some amazing things from the cultural icons to amazing wildlife. From the floodplains, to the jungles, deserts and the mountains. From rural villages to cities of 20 million people. Who can not be impressed by the jaw dropping beauty of the Taj Mahal or the exquisite Golden Temple. The forts and history of proud Rajahstan were also a highlight. And seeing a tiger close up in the wild, well it doesn't get much better than that. India has it all and we didn't even get to explore the South of the country. The food was fantastic, we already loved Indian food before we arrived but experiencing it in India brought a whole new range of flavours to our palate. And the people, they are everywhere, but most of them are helpful, genuine and interested in what we were doing. Yes there are the touts and rip off merchants but you soon learn to see through them and even those interactions can be amusing. There is one thing I won't miss though and that's the traumatic driving. 7010kms of pure hell. Well maybe not all of it but it was certainly the most challenging driving we have done so far. Whilst the roads varied in quality it was the other drivers that were the biggest challenge most with no regard to their own safety. It certainly brought a new meaning to a Hazard Perception test. It was great to spend our last week with friends showing us their country. It meant we left on a real high with batteries recharged for the journey ahead. India is certainly incredible - in many different ways. It brings out all the emotions in you even ones you didn't know you had!

Reflections on Myanmar

Lucy When we went to Myanmar we had to have a guide with us there where three guides called Jo, Jo and Tante ( that's how you say it not how you spell it, the iPad would tell us it's wrong if we wrote how you really spell it)  We had to stay in more hotels than we usually do because the guides needed to stay in town, although they didn't usually stay in the same hotel. We went to loads of pagodas, we went to this giant lying down Buddha where a lady wanted a photo with me and she gave me her necklace. We saw her later on at the war cemetery and she was really happy to see us again. We went to loads more wats, my favourite was another lying down Buddha where there were 4 adorable kittens. I got them to chase my necklace they jumped up high to get it. One of them got their claws stuck in it and when I waggled it, it looked like she was shaking paws.  We went to a big gold rock that was said to be balanced on Buddha's hair. Only men were allowed to touch it. Alisha said it looked like one push would send it toppling and send it toppling to squash loads of people but Jo told us that there had been an earthquake years before and it hadn't even fallen then. We went below it and there was loads of paper fluttering down, it was the paper from the gold leaf that people had stuck on the rock. Then the wind blew and it started raining gold. We tried to collect but there wasn't much gold when it was all squashed up. We went to a lake, where we fed the seagulls and we saw fishermen paddling with their legs. It looked absurd but worked as the fisherman caught lots of fish. We went to a market where me and Alisha brought a silver fish, it was female because it wiggled up and down, and an old fashioned weighing scales. We went to a silver place where they were making a full moon biscuit and more fish out of silver - we bought Mummy a full moon for Christmas. We went to lots of places that day, my favourite place was the Jumping Cat Monastery but the cats weren't jumping they were too busy having a nap but they were very cute.  Jo the guide, liked playing chase with me but he had to tuck his longhi up and make it into shorts but he never beat me. He was also very good at playing Uno but didn't beat me again. We left Myanmar with heavy hearts as we had to say goodbye to all the lovely people as we went up into the mountains to India. But not before Tante (our government minder) got one last photo with me, he loved taking photos and took photos of us wherever we went.  Alisha Myanmar was an interesting country. We had a guide for most of Myanmar which was kind of weird as we are used to driving on our own but it was useful for languages and rides to the tourist attractions (and of course so Lucy could have someone else to annoy who wasn't me). But it was a bit annoying when in a town they would overtake all the vehicles in front of them and we would be behind six cars plus a hundred motorbikes and they were also a lot faster then us. I wasn't super keen on all the temples and it was a lot worse when Lucy was in a boisterous mood especially when it involved lots of standing on my toes and head- butting me. Burmese food isn't as famous as let's say Thai but it is good. It involves lots of curries for lunch and a stir-fry for dinner, all served with enough rice to out weigh an elephant. We read in our book that people in Myanmar eat 195 kg of rice a year and Europeans only eat 3 kg! Me and Lucy mostly ate fried rice for lunch by the end of Myanmar we had enough. I don't think we will be eating that again any time soon.  In one of the temples daddy had to wear a longi he looked very silly, me and Lucy laughed and laughed. Men from Myanmar mostly wear longhis all the time and it looked good on them but strange on Daddy. All in all I enjoyed Myanmar though it's very difficult to enjoy a Bagan temple sunrise when someone is standing on your toes.  Gilly Sometimes changing countries isn't too much of a surprise but as soon was we crossed the border from Thailand it felt like we had entered somewhere very different. As the girls and I waited for Steve to complete customs we watched ladies with a yellow paste on their faces; men in longhis (sarongs); and then a procession of maroon robed monks collecting their morning alms. Then the national anthem struck up and everyone stood to attention, at the end lots of the men saluted.  Thanaka is a light yellow paste made from a type of bark, it is both a cooling beauty cream and sunscreen. It Is worn by the majority of women, children and even some men. What delighted the girls and I was that everyone puts on their own design everyday. Ladies usually chose something elegant like circles, hearts, squiggles or even leaves on their cheeks, foreheads and chin. Much like I apply sunscreen to my girls, mums seem to slather it on their kids' whole faces as we saw on the little ones on their way to school or draw a cute design on babies. You can buy ready made pots but most people prefer to grind their own on a special flat stone every morning. We noticed that portable thanaka stones were popular souvenirs for local pilgrims at the tourist spots. At one of the temples in Mandalay a girl kindly drew a leaf design on my cheeks, it felt lovely and cool. Myanmar has gone through some very big political changes over the last year, with the Military Junta slowly relinquishing power to the democratically elected government. Our 3 year old guidebook warned that we shouldn't talk to people about politics but people spoke to us openly about their support for the changes and Aung San Suu Kyi's National League for Democracy. They said people were happy with the changes and that things were very rapidly changing within the country. We did see a very alarming sign outside the Royal palace, which is in a military base, in Mandalay. Kyaw said that there are signs like this all over the country, the only difference here was it was written in English. We found the people of Myanmar (the Burmese are only one group) very friendly and pleased to meet foreigners. For instance, one night we were just quietly deliberating if some pancakes from a roadside stall would make a good desert, when a guy also waiting, bought us a bag full. Blonde Lucy was a hit wherever we went with her, it was a bit like travelling with a minor royal, everywhere people wanted a photo with her. She gallantly smiled her way through hundreds of snaps, we often joined in too. Thantay, our government minder, was constantly taking photos and videos of us especially when we were enjoying the sights. His English was very limited so we never fully found out if it was just a hobby; he was showing his bosses that we weren't up to mischief; or it was for the Tourism department's PR. Maybe we'll find ourselves stars of a visit Myanmar campaign in the future, we think it is definitely worth a visit. Steve It was strange to have a guide through Myanmar after all the Kms we had done by ourselves but we were really pleased to get such a great guide and driver. We were never very sure what the role of the representative from the Ministry of Tourism was but he was also very nice and helped out when there was some confusion. It was great to be able to transit Myanmar and also to see some of its wonderful sights. Bagan was very special especially at sunrise and the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon was amazing. Myanmar feels different to the rest of South East Asia. In parts it felt more like India but as we came to know the country better I think it just has its own distinctive flavour. Tourism is still in its relative infancy and the country is still at the beginning of its development. Roads were still been built effectively by hand and we saw some children working both on the roads and in restaurants. There were also a lot of contradictions in Myanmar. My favourite was the road system. In the 1960s the country switched to driving on the right hand side of the road (the European side) as the other side was a vestige of British colonialism. However most (90%) of their cars and some of the trucks are imported from Japan so have their steering wheels on the right hand (wrong) side. Overtaking is already challenging but this made it doubly so for the drivers. Bizarrely the toll booths are set up to accommodate the steering wheels that are on the wrong side and are also conveniently placed on the wrong side too. Overall it was a great two weeks, certainly different for us but the guide and driver made sure everything went smoothly and took care of everything for us. It was quite a shock to arrive in India and have to start doing everything for ourselves again.