Truckie Drives Again

Having spent 4 years driving around the world in a truck, what on earth do you do for your first holiday after getting back? Why, get back in the truck and go for a drive of course. Unfortunately given we only had 3 weeks of Alisha's Easter holidays we couldn't go very far but it felt good to be back to our old life, even if it was for a short time.Truckie was running well too. After a thorough overhaul at both MAN and Bocklet in Germany both the engine and living box had all its trip injuries fixed. Bocklet had done wonders fixing the holes in the back from where another truck had hit us in Cambodia. We were excited about having hot water again too, after over a year old of cold showers when we couldn't fix the tank's leak on the road. Truckie was now so shiny and new looking, we were worried that we would scratch him again when we did our first tree-lined track.We'd heard good things about the Picos de Europa mountains and the wild Atlantic coast of Northern Spain. The region also gave us a wonderful opportunity to see our old Overlanding friends Betti and John in Portugal.Just a couple of hours off the ferry, the mountainous National Park of Picos De Europe had us excited to be back on the road. The sharp, upright towers reminded us so much of Torres de Pines in the Chilean Andes. Even better, in late March they were covered in snow. Taking a cable car upwards at Fuentes De, we had to abandon our planned hike as the snow was so thick that we sank in up to our thighs but we revelled in the bright sunshine reflecting off the white. Not having driven the truck much for the last 6 months, Steve didn't particularly enjoy the narrow, winding road that snaked upwards through the tight valley. Night fall had bought in rain and thick cloud, obscuring any view. However the next morning as we made our way upwards toward the pass, we passed through the cloud layer. Above it was a magical place of light, with fluffy while clouds carpeting the valley below up and the peaks blanketed in snow above us. The historical cities of León and Salamanca are stuffed full of architectural gems from the medieval cathedrals; renaissance churches; and baroque main plazas. It was enough wandering around the cobbled streets marvelling at the beauty above us. The girls kept themselves busy whilst walking by imagining elaborate stories based on their surroundings. Each day we rested our cobble-weary feet by stopping to have a fabulous meal of the different regional specialities. Many churches in Spain have solemn Santa Semana (Easter) processions where hooded penitents carry heavy statues and crucifixes. We were in Salamanca for Maundy Thursday and managed to watch one of the smaller processions. There was a serious and contemplative mood of both the participants and people lining the street. All through Central and South America, we had regular meet ups with our fellow truck owners John and Betti. Our paths diverged in Uruguay, as we shipped to South Africa and they spent an extra year in South America before tackling the Sahara, but we kept in touch. Now based in Portugal, we wanted to spend some time properly catching up with them. The girls although delighted to see John and Betti, were more excited about hanging out with their puppy Neo. Having lost their dream property purchase and almost everything they owned in the terrible wild fires last autumn, they welcomed us to their rather grand temporary digs. We had a wonderful 5 days: talking; eating Betti's delicious meals; making soap and lip balms; playing with the dog; and going for walks in the beautiful hills between rain showers. Fancying a bit more of an urban experience, they came with us for a couple of days in Porto. On our 4 years on the road, whenever we went to cities we had to get very creative about where to park the truck to sleep - police stations, fire stations, car parks, petrol stations or even just on the road having asked a friendly shop owner. So Spain and Portugal came as a pleasant surprise, with many towns having a designated overnight parking place for motor homes. You couldn't do anything that looked like camping: chairs and washing lines etc. and there was sometimes a small fee but the locations were fantastic. Which meant an easy stroll home from the port tasting warehouse area along the river.Throughout Spain and Portugal we've been impressed by the sight of raincoat clad walkers making their way along the various routes of the Camino de Santiago walking hundreds of kilometres towards the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Apart from the odd pilgrim the old town was shuttered and closed in the rainy afternoon but as the sun shone through the clouds and shops reopened after the siesta time, people came out of nowhere to stroll through the cobbled streets. I have to be honest grand gold-clad cathedrals do nothing for my faith, I prefer to talk to God in nature or simple buildings, but you can't help be impressed by the artistry of these centuries old places of worship. The lighthouse on the wind blown cliff top at Fisterra is now seen by many pilgrims to be the end point of the Camino. The scrub covered outcrop certainly seems like the end of the continent with the Atlantic stretching away to the horizon. In our cliff top night spot, we were protected from the gusts by tucking beside a rocky outcrop. When I think of Spanish beaches, I picture the golden sanded beaches of the Mediterranean marred by the huge number of people on them. However the wild Atlantic coast of Northern Spain is something else far more exciting and exhilarating, especially in early spring. Waves crashing over huge rocks, churning white water and the taste of salt in the air and even better than that - no people. Taking a single width road through the forest, we worried we would scratch Truckie's newly painted sides to find a dead end. But instead it widened into a wide gravel track along a stunning coastline, with just a few houses trucked into canyons. That night we found out why the houses were so tucked away, as the wind and rain gales shook the truck all night. It brought back many memories of being tucked up warm and snug safe in the truck all over the world, whilst listening to storms raging outside. The place was sublime though with a wild untamed beauty with waves crashing over rocks. A couple of small sandy beaches gave Lucy plenty of space to dig and explore, whilst a puddle of tadpoles kept her happily fascinated for hours. After a couple more nights making our way along the untamed coast, the call of the mountains was too strong so we took another winding road up to the other side of the Picos de Europe National Park. Steve had got back into the swing of driving the truck and was now completely undaunted by the even narrower valley roads, even when a rockfall meant an multipoint turn to backtrack. It was well worth getting up to the tiny and almost deserted village of Posada de Valdeón, tucked into a valley surrounded by soaring pointed peaks. Round every corner of the cobbled lanes, there was another ancient, square wooden grain store raised off the ground on mushroom-shaped posts to stop mice getting in. We shared the motor home parking spot beside the modern sports hall, the biggest building around for many miles, with a couple of donkeys and fell asleep to the gentle ringing from the cow's bells from the neighbouring field. Alisha amazed us with her sewing project that she'd been stitching away at quietly in the evenings. Using the fabric she bought at Kashgar market, completely on her own, she created a fabulous dress. As the weather had closed in again, our hike along the valley the following day meant we were playing spot the peaks through the clouds. But the near views were just as engaging as we walked through terraced pastures speckled with early spring flowers and along rushing streams filled with melt waters. All too soon - after so many years of freedom, the school holiday restrictions are hard to get used to - it was just time to go home. We just had time for some amazing tapas in Santander before boarding the ferry home.So do we miss our vagabond trucking lifestyle? Well, yes and no. Although it has been hard settling into a more stationary life in the UK, it has much to offer us especially in terms of being with family and Alisha's education (Lucy still being home educated, can learn anywhere). And we just moved into a new house a couple of weeks before going away - which is exciting. But it was wonderful being back in the truck, seeing and experiencing new things every day and we all slept so well in our old beds.

The Visa Run

On arriving back from our wonderful trek we received the news that it was not going to be possible for us to go back through Myanmar to China. There had been an uprising by an ethnic group in Shan Province and as a result of this no permits were being issued to transit through that section which was next to the Chinese border. So now what to do? We had two choices. Ship the truck from India or drive it through Pakistan to China. The only problem was that Pakistan would only issue a visa to British citizens in London unless they were residents of another country. The shipping option did not look attractive, we didn't want to ship and the routes and timings weren't ideal either so we took the decision that I would drive the truck through Pakistan. Gilly and the girls would fly over from India and meet me in China. So as soon as we got back I booked flights to London for the following day. We had been told by the visa company that dealt with all visa applications for Pakistan in London that a visa usually took 2 weeks to issue but could be longer. So it didn't make sense booking return flights, I would just have to book them as I went. The following morning I said goodbye to Gilly and the girls. It was really hard as we have spent the last three and a half years all together so going away was a real pull. At least they were in a nice spot just outside Pokhara with friendly local people and everything they needed close at hand. The first flight was Pokhara to Kathmandu on a little prop plane. It was only a 25 minute flight but it was to cause untold problems. First we were told all flights were delayed because of flight congestion at Kathmandu! Then we were told our plane had a mechanical issue and an engineer was coming on a flight from Kathmandu. When he arrived he promptly proceeded to kick the front wheel, then pull at it before declaring everything as being ok. It didn't exactly fill you with confidence. I had allowed over 5 hours between flights at Kathmandu but we were been further and further delayed. Eventually 5 hours late we took off. But the 25 minute flight ended up taking over an hour, again because of flight congestion over Kathmandu. The views of the mountains on the flight were wonderful but to be honest I was too busy looking at my watch to enjoy them. We eventually landed at the same time as my flight to London via Mumbai was due to leave. I dashed between the domestic and international terminals in the hope my flight had been delayed but to no avail the desk was already closed. Ok I was travelling very light, I had an iPad and a credit card I just needed to book another flight. The only problem was there was no wifi in the airport and my SIM card chose just that moment to expire. So off I trooped to find the Oman Airways office as I knew they had a flight out later that evening. At the office they told me they only dealt with operations and didn't sell tickets. For that I would have to go into town. They kindly provided me with the address so I flagged a cab and dashed into the evening rush hour. Fortunately the ticket agency was still open and they were able to get me on the flight leaving that evening that would end up arriving at Heathrow at the same time as my original flight. There was just time to grab something to eat and sort out cancelling the flight I had missed before it was back to the airport. Fortunately things got a lot easier from then and it was a smooth flight via Muscat to London. On arriving at Heathrow I jumped straight on the tube to head over to the visa company and submit all my documents. Everything was in order but when I asked how long it would take I was told at least 10 working days and possibly longer, not a good sign. Since I would be waiting around and as I have 2 passports I thought I would jump on another flight and head to Spain to see my parents. So first I jumped on a bus to Gatwick checked into the airport hotel and booked a flight for the following morning. It was my birthday but not much of a celebration just me, a burger and a pint of bitter in the hotel restaurant. The next days flight to Spain went smoothly. After not having flown for nearly 9 months I had now taken 5 flights in 4 days. I used to fly a lot for business but can't say I have missed it. I spent a lovely week with my parents in Spain. The weather was good and we just relaxed apart from taking a few walks.   It was so nice to see them. We took the opportunity to catch up with some friends as well as enjoy some wonderful Spanish cuisine and a good old Sunday lunch. The day before I was due to fly back I received a text saying my passport was ready to be picked up. Fantastic and after only 8 working days. So as soon as I landed at Gatwick I caught the train over to the visa office where I received my Pakistani visa. Result. As it was the start of the Easter holidays and as I had already arranged to go and visit my sister and family I caught another train to the South Coast. We had a lovely weekend catching up as well as eating and drinking well.   On the Saturday evening we popped for a few pints in the local pub followed by a curry, just how I remember a typical Saturday night out in England. Then on Sunday we went over to some of their friends for a lovely afternoon and evening. Rob, Gill and their kids were great hosts and cooked us a lovely meal as well as keeping us well watered. But it was time to get back to Nepal and Gilly and the girls. Nick my nephew kindly drove me back up to Heathrow to catch my flight back to Pokhara via Bangkok and Kathmandu. It was going to be a long time on the plane. Whilst it was not great the family been split up for 2 weeks at least we now have a route out of the sub continent and it was great for me to have the unexpected opportunity to catch up with everyone in Spain and England.

Visiting Parents in Spain

It seemed strange leaving South America after so long but at least when we arrived at our first stop in Europe, Spain, the language was still the same.  It had been a good but long flight and Alisha and Lucy had refused to sleep on the flight as they were too busy watching movies so when we arrived In Madrid they were exhausted.
We then had a four and a half hour drive to Altea La Vella where my parents live.  My parents have owned property there for over 35 years and I have been a regular visitor so returning to the small pretty village was like returning to a second home.  It had been over a year since we had seen my parents so we were really pleased to see them. 
     As my mum had recently suffered a dislocated shoulder we did not do much in the 5 days we were there but that was just fine with us.  We chatted and caught up on things and even had a couple of afternoon siestas as we got over the jet lag.
The weather was fantastic so the girls were able to enjoy the pool and we could sit on the balcony until late in the evening enjoying the view.
      
We did manage to take a few short strolls along the beach a couple,of kms away but other than that we did not leave the village the whole time we were there.
       One of the things we enjoyed was going out for dinner most nights.  As I know the village so well I always want to revisit certain familiar restaurants.  We did not eat anything fancy but had some lovely tapas.  One thing I was really keen to have was a great Paella.  The restaurant over the road from our apartment, El Mallol, makes a fantastic one so we settled in there for Sunday lunch.  It did not disappoint and we even took the left overs away with us for later.  I first went to El Mallol nearly 40 years ago and so it is nice to go back.  We also know the owners and people who work there who are good friends of the family.   
We were fortunate that while we were there it was my Dad's birthday.  Alisha was keen to cook him a birthday treat.  So we invited my parents over to our apartment where she cooked him pasta bolognese followed by Apple pie and custard.  It was a big success and very tasty.  
         Not to be outdone Lucy made a chocolate cake for birthday tea the next day.    
While we were in Spain we heard that the ship that the truck was due to be loaded on was stuck outside the port due to a strike in the port.  Anyway after 2 days it was all over and the ship docked.  It is now on its way to South Africa, hopefully with the truck on board.
It was also time for us to move on after too short a stay in Spain so it was back to Madrid to catch our flight to London.