What's the best place to get away from the heatwave in the rest of Europe? How about a rock in the middle of the Atlantic far north east from the top of Scotland. Even in August the Faroes Islands is a bracing place with swirling fog, refreshing downpours and a very fresh breeze. Goodbye shorts and sunglasses, hello gortex and woolly hats. We definitely felt as far away from the scorching temperatures of the rest of the continent as we could.
Why the Faroe Islands? You might ask. Well for our last trip in the truck, we had decided to explore the unique environment of Iceland and the ferry from Denmark offered a few days stop in the Faroes, so why not? We are always interested in different sort of places.
We know this five week trip won't be the same as our 4 years driving around the world but we wanted an exciting destination that would be great to do in the truck.
In the week's drive northwards through Denmark we skirted up the coast, exploring the sand dunes and long sandy beaches. Alisha turned 13 beside a trout lake full of clever fishes that alluded Steve's rod.
The day and a half ferry to the Faroes was full, with 1,400 on board. It was half full of families of Faroese returning home in their caravans and half full of mainland Europeans with their own cars. As well as cars, the hold was full of goods trailers all carrying fish from the smell that permeated all the stairwells. It was easy and smooth sailing, the only shock was the expense and poor quality of the food available.
We emerged from the boat's bowels at 10pm, into pitch black and driving rain. As always in the morning, everything looks better. As we drove across two of the larger islands, we got to appreciate the beauty of the soaring green cliffs dramatically drop down into the sea below. Just off shore, weirdly shaped rock stacks full of nesting seabirds seemed to be round every corner. These amazing formations left us questioning just how they were geologically possible. Grey layers of basalt rock from ancient volcanic eruptions lay in stripes interspersed with emerald grass clinging to the vertical cliffs above us. Deep furrows in the rocks were formed over millennia by the many waterfalls plunging downwards. 
Mulafossur Waterfall drops dramatically straight into the sea. The village behind sits in a bowl of mountains crowned by clouds. A couple of hours later the optical illusion of Lake Leitisvatn, where it appears the lake at the top of the cliff is higher than the sea below, eluded us as driving rain and mist made for a very wet walk. 
All that precipitation creates a wonderfully fecund and lush surroundings, there are few trees, but the grass is startlingly green. What I loved most of all was that many of the houses were roofed with turf. Great insulation, it also looked beautiful and prompted much speculation amongst the girls if you needed to mow your roof or just send one of the many sheep up to keep it tidy. Hanging under some of the eaves we saw the traditional style cod drying and fermenting. 
It is only possible to see the black volacanic sand beach of Saksun at low tide. The way in is through a gorge with waterfalls dropping into the shallow tidal waters, grass clinging to the steep wall where a little soil had gathered. In the tiny isolated village the turf roofed church stood looking cozy as it was buffeted in the winds coming off the sea. 
Around the islands grass was being cut and dried, ready for winter fodder for the 70,000 sheep that live in the Faroes (human population is under 50,000). I've never seen tractors fitted with extra tyres on both front and back but here they are needed to give traction on the steep ground. In some places the grass was painstakingly stacked on multiple wires, strung between fence posts and netted, to help it dry and stop it blowing away in the wind. 
The three main islands are linked by long undersea tunnels making it easy to get around. The excellent roads snaked over high passes, giving amazing vistas over the swirling seas around every corner. So it was just typical that on one of the only single width roads, we encountered a local truck much the same size as us. I waved Steve back into a tiny passing place, whilst the other truck inched past with just a couple of centimetres between the two vehicles. It reminded us of all the hairy passing places we've had to navigate all over the world. This time I was very thankful that there was a barrier, stopping up plunging hundreds of metres down to the seas below. 
The capital, Torshavn, seemed a busy lively place with smart shops and a striking modern cathedral. Knowing that we have several hours to explore the city on the way back on the ferry we spent our time out enjoying the islands' beautiful countryside. With just 3 days in the Faroes, we only scratched the surface but it is did give us a chance to admire its deep fjords, amazing scenery and, of course, refreshing weather - that summer heatwave seemed a long way away.
