Separated and Stationary

Up until 15 days ago for the last 3 years, 7 months we have never been apart from more than a few hours at a time. We are a unit, our little overlanding family. We might argue and constantly get on each other's nerves but we've made it more than 3/4 of the way round then world so far together. Most of our friends and family were laying bets that we'd not even last a few weeks. All of that changed on the day we got back from our trek, when Steve flew off to London to get his Pakistani visa. Having been told he could only get it in his home country, there seemed no other alternative. Pakistan looks like our only driving option left since the border between Nepal and Tibet has been closed since the earthquake and Myanmar's border with China is closed due to unrest. We made a decision that we won't take the girls through Pakistan, after looking at the FCO advice etc. We might be being overcautious but we would never forgive ourselves if anything happened to them. We've heard so many good things about the Pakistani people and having travelled there myself 20 years ago my main memories are of warmth and hospitality but we are playing it safe. Steve is just happy for a chance to catch up with me on his country tick list but I'm so jealous he gets to drive the Karakoram Highway. The girls and I will meet him on the other side in Kashgar, China. So while Steve was off, the girls and I settled into a routine in the outskirts of Pokhara, parked up in a grassy carpark of almost always empty August Resort. Having been there before the trek too, we reacquainted ourselves with our neighbours. We used the time to do double school, 4 hours a day compared with the usual two. Being stationary meant that we could do lots of art and crafts. As always, a lot of the girl's studies are based around the countries we are in so we skipped ahead a bit making Tibetan prayer flags and sand mandalas, as well as Chinese opera masks. DSC09951DSC09960 The other great thing about being stationary for a while was the chance for the girls to have a little more independence and responsibility. Alisha was very happy popping to the neighbourhood shops to pick things up by herself. Lucy made good friends with Prassana, a little boy who lived next door. They bonded over his family's baby chicks who roamed in the carpark, everyday they spent ages playing with them with the other neighbourhood kids. Lucy was even invited to his birthday party. Everyone in the area was very friendly and we felt very relaxed. The girls and I were so tempted to sneak a sweet young stray dog, that we saved all our scraps for, into the truck and adopt her. P1010630 P1010634 DSC09933 Babu's chicks, Pokhara DSC09969DSC09966 One afternoon we took a sewing class with Back Street Academy at a women's fair trade cooperative and made iPad cases. Alisha absolutely loved using a treadle sewing machine and the warm-hearted ladies were very kind about my complete inability to get the dam thing going. DSC09946 DSC09947 I had been worried that I would feel a bit lonely but on our first afternoon, a friendly young German Overlander knocked on the door and introduced herself. We were having such a good chat that she ended up staying for supper, and the following day she brought her van to the carpark while her husband went off on a rented motorbike for a few days. We hung out, ate, hiked and sheltered from the heavy thunderstorms every afternoon. It was great to have the company of such a lovely girlfriend. The next door cafe also had lovely people in it, so I wasn't at all lonely. After her husband came back, we hung out with him too and a few days later, Ester and Thomas - Swiss Overlanders turned up in their MAN truck. Having seen only one overlanding vehicle and one group of bikers in the whole of Asia, it was great to spend time with people who understand this way of life. Food, stories and skills were all shared, we were very thankful for the company and they fixed our new windscreen we had fitted inĀ Delhi so it no longer leaks. DSC09954 We missed Steve but our time gave us an opportunity to mentally regroup and prepare for the challenges of the next 5 months, which looks like it will be some of the most challenging parts of our trip so far. I think we were almost a bit sad when we got the great news that Steve's visas was ready. With him back a few days earlier than we had anticipated we found we had just enough time to do a 7 day trek up to Mardi Himal, which had caught our eye on our other trek. We'd heard it was a great quiet trek with amazing views, so I persuaded the rest of the family to try to squeeze it in before we have to head south-west to India again. I was lovely when Steve finally arrived back after an exhausting long flight via Bangkok. We had just one short evening for a joint birthday celebration, Steve spent his birthday at the Pakistani visa agency in London and I will have mine on the trek next week, with our new friends. DSC09974

The Visa Run

On arriving back from our wonderful trek we received the news that it was not going to be possible for us to go back through Myanmar to China. There had been an uprising by an ethnic group in Shan Province and as a result of this no permits were being issued to transit through that section which was next to the Chinese border. So now what to do? We had two choices. Ship the truck from India or drive it through Pakistan to China. The only problem was that Pakistan would only issue a visa to British citizens in London unless they were residents of another country. The shipping option did not look attractive, we didn't want to ship and the routes and timings weren't ideal either so we took the decision that I would drive the truck through Pakistan. Gilly and the girls would fly over from India and meet me in China. So as soon as we got back I booked flights to London for the following day. We had been told by the visa company that dealt with all visa applications for Pakistan in London that a visa usually took 2 weeks to issue but could be longer. So it didn't make sense booking return flights, I would just have to book them as I went. The following morning I said goodbye to Gilly and the girls. It was really hard as we have spent the last three and a half years all together so going away was a real pull. At least they were in a nice spot just outside Pokhara with friendly local people and everything they needed close at hand. The first flight was Pokhara to Kathmandu on a little prop plane. It was only a 25 minute flight but it was to cause untold problems. First we were told all flights were delayed because of flight congestion at Kathmandu! Then we were told our plane had a mechanical issue and an engineer was coming on a flight from Kathmandu. When he arrived he promptly proceeded to kick the front wheel, then pull at it before declaring everything as being ok. It didn't exactly fill you with confidence. I had allowed over 5 hours between flights at Kathmandu but we were been further and further delayed. Eventually 5 hours late we took off. But the 25 minute flight ended up taking over an hour, again because of flight congestion over Kathmandu. The views of the mountains on the flight were wonderful but to be honest I was too busy looking at my watch to enjoy them. We eventually landed at the same time as my flight to London via Mumbai was due to leave. I dashed between the domestic and international terminals in the hope my flight had been delayed but to no avail the desk was already closed. Ok I was travelling very light, I had an iPad and a credit card I just needed to book another flight. The only problem was there was no wifi in the airport and my SIM card chose just that moment to expire. So off I trooped to find the Oman Airways office as I knew they had a flight out later that evening. At the office they told me they only dealt with operations and didn't sell tickets. For that I would have to go into town. They kindly provided me with the address so I flagged a cab and dashed into the evening rush hour. Fortunately the ticket agency was still open and they were able to get me on the flight leaving that evening that would end up arriving at Heathrow at the same time as my original flight. There was just time to grab something to eat and sort out cancelling the flight I had missed before it was back to the airport. Fortunately things got a lot easier from then and it was a smooth flight via Muscat to London. On arriving at Heathrow I jumped straight on the tube to head over to the visa company and submit all my documents. Everything was in order but when I asked how long it would take I was told at least 10 working days and possibly longer, not a good sign. Since I would be waiting around and as I have 2 passports I thought I would jump on another flight and head to Spain to see my parents. So first I jumped on a bus to Gatwick checked into the airport hotel and booked a flight for the following morning. It was my birthday but not much of a celebration just me, a burger and a pint of bitter in the hotel restaurant. The next days flight to Spain went smoothly. After not having flown for nearly 9 months I had now taken 5 flights in 4 days. I used to fly a lot for business but can't say I have missed it. I spent a lovely week with my parents in Spain. The weather was good and we just relaxed apart from taking a few walks.   It was so nice to see them. We took the opportunity to catch up with some friends as well as enjoy some wonderful Spanish cuisine and a good old Sunday lunch. The day before I was due to fly back I received a text saying my passport was ready to be picked up. Fantastic and after only 8 working days. So as soon as I landed at Gatwick I caught the train over to the visa office where I received my Pakistani visa. Result. As it was the start of the Easter holidays and as I had already arranged to go and visit my sister and family I caught another train to the South Coast. We had a lovely weekend catching up as well as eating and drinking well.   On the Saturday evening we popped for a few pints in the local pub followed by a curry, just how I remember a typical Saturday night out in England. Then on Sunday we went over to some of their friends for a lovely afternoon and evening. Rob, Gill and their kids were great hosts and cooked us a lovely meal as well as keeping us well watered. But it was time to get back to Nepal and Gilly and the girls. Nick my nephew kindly drove me back up to Heathrow to catch my flight back to Pokhara via Bangkok and Kathmandu. It was going to be a long time on the plane. Whilst it was not great the family been split up for 2 weeks at least we now have a route out of the sub continent and it was great for me to have the unexpected opportunity to catch up with everyone in Spain and England.