The Argentinian Lake District

There are hundreds of lakes in near Bariloche and they all seemed to be surrounded by forests and have bright blue waters reflecting snow capped peaks. The seven lakes route from San Martin de los Andes to Bariloche is justifiably known as one of Argentina's most beautiful routes. The New Year started with perfect azure blue skies, we really appreciated our free municipal parking spot right on the lake in San Martin. The preceding day when the rain was bucketing down only a few brave souls ventured out of their cars to take a quick snap of the grey lake. Now the shore was filling with families enjoying the fresh cold air and bathing in the warming sunlight. image Once we set off we were soon "Ooh-ing and Aah-ing", as the mountain vistas of peaks, lakes and pristine evergreen forests unfolded. With the great weather, summer holidays and it being a bank holiday it was pretty busy with everyone enjoying the day out. imageimage We found a lovely spot in the free campsite next to Lago Villarino. We are starting to turn Argentinian in our cooking: out came the firewood, folding grill, tons of meat and potatoes wrapped in foil. Next morning we had one of our shortest drives ever, I'm not sure Steve even needed to turn on the engine, as we rolled 20m down the hills to a recently vacated camp spot right on the lake. image image image image image image image School started for the girls the following day, after their Christmas break, and it was just another short drive to Laguna Traful. As the road had turned to dirt we were back out deflating our tyres to reduce shaking and avoid damaging the tyres. This seems to be a daily occurrence at the moment as we are on and off corrugated dirt roads. Luckily the truck has a built in compressor, so re-inflating the tyres once we are back on the tar isn't a problem.image The lake shore was heaving with campers, so we found a little track a few kilometres back and drove down. We found a lovely spot close to a shallow stream in the forest. The stream looked much like the shallow gravel beds so familiar to us from New Forest in England. Like at "home" the girls soon got going building dams and floating sticks downstream. The main difference was the temperature, as the water was straight off the glacier above, even a few seconds emersion was painfully cold. imageimageimageimage We waved goodbye to John and Betti the next morning, as they needed to go to Bariloche to do jobs. We meandered through the last part of the spectacular seven lakes route, stopping on Lago Nahuel Huapi for the night. image image image image image It was our turn for jobs the next day in Bariloche, once a week we need to stock up on food, water, fuel and find a laundry (ideally). Bariloche is one of the most popular tourist towns in Argentina and we are here right in the middle of peak season, so it was very busy. Dragging the girls around town tends to slow the process down, so they usually do school while Steve stocks us up. The added complication in Argentina is that siesta time is been 12 and 4 or 5pm; most businesses close and you can't get anything done. We rendezvoused with John and Betti that night at a quiet spot they'd found next to a stream, high above the town. They love dogs and have a totally different attitude to strays that usually turn up whilst we are cooking. Whilst we usually ignore them or chase them off if they come too close to the barbecue, Betti makes friends and feeds them with titbits. That night a dignified, older, white mountain dog turned up. We think he must have been only recently abandoned as he had a sweet, easy manner around humans and was very well behaved. He was soon christened "Bundy" and the girls fell in love with him, once his kind nature had been revealed. Maybe John and Betti are on to something though, as "Bundy" in exchange for our barbecue scraps settled down underneath to guard the trucks for the night. image Just a couple of hours drive through more beautiful scenery is the little town of El Bolson. We'd timed our arrival so we could visit the local market where they only sold locally home-made products. The truck is heaving at the seams after Christmas (as much as we said to the girls "one toy in, one toy out" it doesn't seem to have worked out that way), so our shopping was limited to the "window" type. However the home cooked food was delicious. image Our campsite that night had an onsite microbrewery - I think you can you guess who chose the spot. We had a final night with John and Betti, enjoying both the beer and the local rainbow trout. It was sad to say goodbye to them, we've all enjoyed their company a lot, but as we are all heading roughly southwards we may well see them again along the way.

Out In The Wilds

We awoke to a lovely morning with silence all around us. This was going to be the theme for the next few days. The view down the gorge was spectacular. We were traveling South with John and Betti through the desert scrub with the Andes rearing up on one side with their snow capped peaks. This was the road less travelled and we saw very little traffic for days as we drove along the rough roads. Before we left that morning we went for a lovely walk down the gorge.

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DSC01931.JPG Then it was back in the trucks and back on the Ruta 40. We were now down at KM 3000 on Ruta 40 having been at KM 4500 all those months ago in Northern Argentina. Ruta 40 had certainly changed as we travelled. Outside of Mendoza it had been a two lane dual carriageway and now it was a rutted gravel track.

DSC01937.JPG We decided to head off Ruta 40 to do a loop out to Lago Llancancelo. As we approached the lake though it was pretty dried up and the road did not reach down to the shore. We did manage to find a place to pull off though and camp up for the night. Again it was so quiet with nothing around. Sometimes people ask how does retirement feel. Well it looks a lot like this.

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DSC01948.JPG The next morning we continued on the rough road into Parque Provincial Payunia. This area is full of dormant volcanos. It must have been a very thermally active part of the world millions of years ago but now the volcanos have largely eroded away. There were still a number remaining though and we found a small, perfectly shaped one to climb.

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DSC01957.JPG Again we camped out in the wild with just the sound of the wind and the lovely sunset to keep us company.

DSC01975.JPG The next morning the rough roads had taken their toll on the trucks. John and Betti's truck had a puncture and the disc brake cover on our truck was about to fall off as it has done before. This meant before we could get started we had to take a wheel off each of the trucks. Fortunately we had a spare cover so apart from the effort of removing the wheel nuts we were on our way after an hour or so.

DSC01977.JPG We needed to stock the trucks up again with food and water but towns are a long way ie 300kms apart in this part of Argentina so there is not a lot of choice. We headed into the small wind swept town of Chos Malal which was the next one on the road and spent the night there. We also needed to get our washing done but the only launderette in town was close. However John and Betti's truck has the luxury of a washing machine and they kindly let us do it in their machine. With the dry desert wind it soon dried that evening. The next morning we headed South again wanting to get back out into the wilds again. At lunch we separated with John and Betti as they needed to go into town to try and buy a truck battery but agreed to meet up with them for New Year. Heading back up towards the Andes the scenery changed from dry desert scrub to much greener highland moor. We were also now in the Pehuen region named after the Pehuen tree more commonly known as the Monkey Puzzle tree which dotted the landscape.

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DSC02001.JPG We passed some lovely lakes and then the road turned down a valley following the Rio Alumine. This is a well known fishing river and we camped for the night in a parking spot used for fishing. The river around here was fast with a lot of white water and it is mainly a fly fishing river. However Alisha was desperate to go fishing again so we got the rod out and gave spinning a go. I was not expecting to catch anything but to my surprise and the girls delight we caught a small rainbow trout.

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DSC02020.JPG We continued South into the beginning of what is known as the Argentinian Lake District. We picked up Ruta 40 again which was now a nice tar road. The weather had also changed and was a bit like the English Lake District, wet and cold. Heading into San Martin de Los Andes we were back on the tourist route. It is a pretty town with wooden chalets and we found a place to park by the lake. I could not help but feel though that we did not quite fit in and I was missing the quiet desolate places we had been camping in over the last week. Still it was New Years Eve so we mistakenly thought it would be a good place to celebrate. John and I headed out around 7 to have an early beer while the girls got ready to go out. But we could not find a bar. Everywhere was closed and in the end we ended up having a beer in the bus station cafe. Later we all headed out to try and find a restaurant to eat and celebrate New Year. Again a lot of places were closed and the only ones open had special New Years menus and did not open until 21.30. This was not what we were looking for so we decided to head back to the trucks and celebrate New Year in the truck. On the way back we popped in a delicatessen to buy some goodies and Gilly and Betti cooked up a lovely dinner. So it might not of been what we were looking for but it was a great end to a fantastic year.

DSC02031.JPG Happy New Year everyone.